The main attraction on the tour is however Leroy, who's smile floats through the air, in and out of the shadows on the yellowish water but the further down stream we get the more the magic dies till he is suddenly no more than a boy half my age who gets horny easily. Later he lapses into Pidgin English and asks me if "I wud gi ih mi phon nuba an see ih lata?" It takes some time for me to understand him properly but my decision has long been taken. I have no interest in giving him my phone number. "Nu tanks an god luk toya," I say and hurry off. The road beckons. She is my foremost passion in life.